THE BALKANS

The Balkans are a region in southeastern Europe. It includes the countries of Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Greece, Kosovo, Macedonia, Montenegro, Romania, Serbia and Slovenia. Cecilia had desperately been trying to get me to visit the Balkans for years, and for some reason, I balked each time (pun intended). Before Game of Thrones, the Balkans wasn’t squarely in the consciousness of US tourists. But I’m happy Cecilia was persistent because the Balkans is fabulous. It’s always hard to rank our trips. but the Balkans are most definitely in our top ten – and perhaps higher. It has everything we enjoy – romantic walled cities, complicated history, jaw-dropping national parks, a dreamy coastline with great roads, and of course – the food….THE FOOD!!! Our trip started and ended in Croatia visiting Slovenia, Bosnia, and Montenegro along the way. We loved our entire trip; however, here’s a smattering of our favorite spots. Read More...

Ljubljana, Slovenia. Though Ljubljana is perhaps the most challenging city I have ever had to spell (I still cannot pronounce it correctly), it is undoubtedly one of the most photogenic we have visited in our travels. It’s hard to believe that Ljubljana is Slovenia’s largest city because it is relatively small. It’s a beautiful, compact city you can walk through three times before breakfast. The city center is bisected by the Ljubljanica River, a slow-moving, green-tinted body of water. The entire city is impeccably manicured and spotless. We bought two tickets for the funicular, which transported us to the recently renovated Ljubljana Castle, which overlooks Ljubljana’s beautiful red clay roofs two hundred feet below. The castle, now a museum, is fantastic, but the views are breathtaking. We lumbered to the top of the castle tower via a spiral staircase that felt longer than the entire town was wide and was rewarded with spectacular views of the castle grounds and the city below. After we returned to the city, we made the mistake of choosing a touristic restaurant on the river bank. Some of these restaurants cater exclusively to tourists and aren’t really in the service business. After waiting twenty-five minutes for a coffee that never came, your intrepid narrator narrowly avoided a hangry melt-down and found a less touristy restaurant where we enjoyed tasty Slovenian pasta.  We highly recommend Ljubljana. It was perhaps Ceci’s favorite excursion during our trip. Just don’t expect me to pronounce it for you.

Plitvice National Park, Slovenia. Admittedly, I didn’t research our destinations in any great detail before we travelled to the Balkans. Cecilia is our resident travel planner and my photography site scout - and she’s quite good at it. But, Plitvice Lakes National Park is one place that I had always wanted to visit. The photos of lush, bountiful waterfalls have always seemed like a photographer’s candy store. Though the warm, dry summers mutes the waterfall’s flow rates as compared to spring and early summer, the sheer number and concentration of waterfalls are spectacular. Additionally, I certainly wasn’t prepared for the numerous beautiful turquoise lakes that are the dominant feature of the park. We thoroughly enjoyed our hike through Plitvice and are eager to return during autumn to witness the vibrant foliage.

Hvar, Croatia. Both Cecilia and I had heard great things about Hvar, so we were both excited for the day trip to the city. We had a relaxing 60-minute journey to Hvar, traveling west through the islands of Šolta and Brac. There are many things you can do on the island. Several restaurants are available as soon as you disembark – but beware of the tourist traps. You can flock to one of many pebbly or concrete beaches. You may also choose to roam around the old city, which is stunning. Or you may decide to hike to Tvrdava Fortica, the medieval castle that looms over the city. We did all of this. But, of course, we ate first. After avoiding the overly touristy restaurants, we settled for a family-owned restaurant and had a lovely meal. After lunch and coffee, we toured the old city. If you live in Hvar, you will have to be physically fit as much of the town is built on a mountain. There is very little that is accessible to those that are physically impaired. After we toured the city a bit, we hiked to the castle. We didn’t enter but found some nice spots for photos of the town below. After we trudged back down the hill, we rested on a concrete beach, and people watched.

Dubrovnik, Croatia. Dubrovnik is everything we thought it would be. After touring a handful of romantic, medieval cities during our trip to Turkey and the Balkans, we ran the risk of being underwhelmed with the last destination of our journey – but we were anything but underwhelmed. Dubrovnik is amazing. Once in the city, we ticked through our routine, including a self-tour of the city while simultaneously food scouting. On our second evening in Dubrovnik, we took a perilous drive to the summit of Mt Srđ, which towers 400 meters above the old city. This serpentine, one-lane road provided us with a white-knuckle experience as we meandered slowly the hairpin turns and sheer cliffs. Our bravery was rewarded with fabulous sunset portraits and landscapes. The next day we took a three-island private boat tour where we had an opportunity to snorkel, swim and sunbathe on one of the few sand beaches in the region. We were guided by a friendly, albeit reserved chef turned boat captain who switched careers to take advantage of the post-GOT tourist boom. The snorkeling was not for the faint of heart, and the beach was adequate, but the beauty of the islands and water was off the charts. It’s not often that you see such fabulous gradations of aqua blue water set against limestone cliffs. One of our favorite experiences in Dubrovnik occurred during the final day of our trip. We took the obligatory city walls tour where we learned the history of the city, its strategic and economic importance, and its relationship with neighboring friends and foes. Our tour guide, Davor, was terrific. He took the time to explain the Yugoslav Wars in the 1990s, which the group much appreciated. Though he was Croatian, he tried his best to recount events objectively.

Perast, Montengro. Perast is a tiny village that sits within the Bay of Kotor. It’s less of a village and more a series of homes, inns, and restaurants that abut the bay. Perast is home to less than 250 inhabitants and is perhaps 1.5 miles long end-to-end. It would be relatively easy to miss Perast on your way to or from Kotor, but that would be a mistake. Perast was one of our favorite stops on our trip. It’s undoubtedly one of the most beautiful small villages that we have seen anywhere. The combination of the imposing mountains, baroque architecture, and the tranquility of Kotor Bay makes one want to become a digital nomad. We had a lovely, late lunch at Conte Hotel & Restaurant. Our waiter was incredibly attentive and perhaps took more photos of us than we did for the entire trip. Perast definitely deserves a return visit. We had a wonderful experience.

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